Steering Would Help

Right, catch-up post number 2. I wanted to fit the steering column so I could start to get an idea of the proportions of what would go where in the cockpit (alright, all I really wanted to do was fit a steering wheel so I could sit in it and make racing car noises). The column from the donor had a bit of surface rust on it and, in reality, no one would ever see it so I could have just used it as is, but that’s just not how I roll (word).

Before it could be fitted though, modifications had to be performed, so I broke out the new angle grinder (or it could have been the one I stole from work until it was my Birthday)! The original end mounts from the Mazda needed to come off and the lip that surrounded the plate needed to be ground very flat, as I had heard tales of people not having columns quite long enough to reach the steering rack. Another mount from underneath needed to be removed to prevent it fowling on the Zero and I also trimmed back the flanges on the side, to more closely match the contours of the bracket it would be mounted to.

Stock photo showing where I cut

Trial fitting

The column needs to be bolted to the Zero at the bottom, so I had to drill a couple of holes through the newly flat plate. You may notice they are nowhere near central though, as it was the only way I could get the column far enough across to stop the lower column rubbing on the side of the hole through the footwell panel. I was also having an issue with the column resting on the cross-member just in front of the master cylinder mounting, so I needed to make a couple of spacers out of 10mm internal diameter tube to raise it up a bit at the top mounts. Once all this was sorted, it was sanded and painted and now looks great.

Ready for fitting

All done, bring on the engine sounds!

The steering rack fitting was going to be easy… or so I thought. Urgh, more “modifications”. In the first instance, the drivers-side boot was touching the lower suspension mount, so it needed raising. This meant filing out the corner of the plate to get it higher. The plate also ended up being too wide for the bracket on the rack, I’m presuming because of the powder-coating, so that needed some action with the file too. Once that was done (and re-painted) the rack went on easy. Then it was just a simple case of painting the lower column and bolting it all together, I had no problems with the column being too short.

"Modifications"

It now fits

I also decided to try and make a sort of gasket to fill the huge hole that the column passes through in the footwell panel, as I can see it letting it water. I bought a 100mm x 100mm piece of 10mm thick rubber and proceeded to cut round it with the grinder along the edges, so the one piece of rubber straddles the metal surrounding the hole. One thing to note when cutting rubber with a high-speed cutting device: it stinks, really stinks.

This stinks

Finished gasket

After making a hole in it for the column and trimming a couple of sides to fit the chassis it seems to fit quite well. I don’t know whether this will be the final article or not, so I won’t glue it in yet.

Looks quite neat...

...and should keep my feet dryish!

A Bit More Panelling

It’s been a while since the last update, so I need to catch up a bit! At the moment I keep flitting between different jobs, mainly because I keep getting stuck and having to wait for small parts to be delivered, usually nuts and bolts but, occasionally, tools (grrr).

I’ve recently (well, it was ages ago, actually) done a bit more panelling. To start with I installed both footwell end panels, which were pretty simple, just requiring a bit of trimming here and there.

In progress

Lovely

Then came the drivers-side tunnel panels, of which there are two, a main section than runs almost the entire length of the tunnel inside the cockpit and a smaller section that is affixed on the other side of the chassis member to give a bit more room for your feet and the pedals. The only problem was, I couldn’t initially work out how they joined together, I thought I was missing something. After a bit of internet research (seriously, how did we function before it?) it dawned on me that both panels needed bending towards each other and riveting together. The only thing I could find with a strong, straight edge was a spirit level (note to self: buy some angle iron) so I used that to bend the panels over. Not the greatest bit of metalwork ever, bit it sufficed.

It's crude...

...but functional

The larger panel was simple (after the now obligatory trimming and filing), just requiring a simple bend halfway down to match the flare of the tunnel, but the smaller panel needed some bending and then beating with a rubber hammer to mould it to the shape of the different angles of box steel that meet on that corner. Again, I don’t think McLaren will be consulting me on the intricacies of modern panel construction, but I’m happy with the end result (the inner side will be covered in carpet and the outer will mostly be full of engine anyway, so if you can’t do it properly, hide it!).

Cleco's are invaluable here

Looking good

I’m going to leave fitting the main panel on the passenger side for the time being, because I may make it removable, for maintenance of the propshaft. I’ve also decided to paint the engine bay panels, which is a simple case of using a scotchbright pad to key the surface, cleaning it with panel wipe, a couple of coats of etch primer and then 2 or 3 coats with a nice black gloss. I’ve just got to be careful not to scratch it now!

Does this count as advertising?

Happy days

I have also installed more Dynamat on the rear of the main tunnel panel to make the interior feel more solid. So far, so good.